Tuesday, December 1, 2015

Introduction

Welcome to my blog!

Is this a regular hiking blog?  No, it is not.  I created this blog first to fulfill a requirement for my Technical Writing course at Everett Community College.  More than for credit, I genuinely love hiking and the outdoors, and Mountain Loop Highway has a special place in my heart.  It is local and easy to access, and has some incredible hikes.  My goal is to encourage readers to get out and experience the Pacific Northwest in all its glory, whether on Mountain Loop or somewhere else.

Mountain Loop is a 52 mile-long, mostly paved scenic highway leading through the Central and North Cascades.  I chose to write about the southern half of the highway because it is almost due east of Everett Community College and is most relevant to my readers since they either attend Everett or most live in the area.

My experience hiking has been short so far, but condensed.  My obsession with the outdoors started in summer of 2013 after climbing Mount Pilchuck.  Since then I have done almost all of the hikes on Mountain Loop, certainly on the southern portion, most three times or more.  Besides that I have done many hiking trips off I-90, Highway 20, Highway 2, and Mount Baker Highway.  I tracked my mileage between June 26th and September 22nd 2014, and I hiked over 200 miles in under three months.  I got the bug, and I ran with it, never looking back.  I want other people to understand my obsession with the PNW and what I have come to call my mountains.

Some Vocab

For those of you who are discovering hiking for the first time, or who are confused to whom or what I am referring, it seems prudent to elaborate on a few topics and define a few terms:

Switchbacks: Zig-zags going upwards, cut into a mountain so the trail will not be as steep.  These make for much safer trails.

Kristen: My ultimate hiking buddy, friend and partner in crime (if it is a crime to love the outdoors as much as we do).

Mountain Weather: Mountains tend to make their own weather.  As air moves over a mountain, the moisture condenses into clouds, or the clouds condense into liquid water, and it rains.  So, often the clouds that pass over us in Everett end up being rain by the time they pass the mountains in their journey east.  The shapes and massive size of mountains can create wind tunnels and pockets of high and low pressure that don't usually happen in places that are flat and unobstructed.  All of this makes for some very unpredictable weather.  The only thing you can generally depend on at these higher elevations is that it will be colder than at sea level--about three degrees Fahrenheit for every thousand feet.

Scramble: No, this is has nothing to do with eggs.  I use this term anytime when a hike requires using hands to climb--usually across fields of large boulders.

PNW: Pacific Northwest.

Camping vs. Backpacking: Camping is usually referring to camping with a car and sleeping in a tent at an established campsite.  Backpacking, on the other hand, is when you carry everything you need for an overnight trip on your back... in a pack.  "Making camp" when backpacking is just when you're setting up your tent or sleeping arrangements for the night.  Any sort of camping I talk about on this blog in reference to one of the hikes is almost certainly talking about campsites for backpackers.

Paracord: Lightweight nylon rope.  It is extremely versatile for overnight hikes, and I often use it to hang a bag of my more smelly items (food, deodorant, and bug spray, for example) in a tree away from bears.

Mountaineer: Someone who climbs mountains.  When hikers talk about mountaineers, they usually are talking about people with a particular set of technical skills to climb using ropes and harness and/or ice axes and crampons.  "Mountaineers" denotes climbing mountains like Mount Baker or Rainier.  "Hikers" climb smaller and less dangerous peaks.

Rock Cairns: These are stacks of three or more rocks (which therefore cannot be placed by nature) which courteous hikers place to show you you're on the right path.  Do not knock down rock carins unless they are misleading, as they are extremely helpful to lost hikers!  Even add to them if you like, so long as you are not leading a weary hiker off the trail with a needlessly-placed rock tower.

Monday, November 30, 2015

My adventures

The beauty of the Pacific Northwest (PNW) is unparalleled.  Below are a few pictures and a couple of time lapse videos showcasing some of the beauty I have found on my PNW adventures.































Vesper Peak


Looking down on Sperry Peak, Vesper Peak Summit 7/23/15
Overview:
This hike is probably the toughest explored on this blog, depending on what your objective is.  Headlee Pass by itself has some awesome views, and Vesper Lake is a great place to camp overnight. If you do choose to take on the summit, be prepared for exposed, steep slabs of granite and a rough scramble to the top.  Vesper Peak summit is a great destination for mountaineers-in-training and those seeking the thrill of cliffs and drop-offs without too much danger.

Trail:
From Mountain Loop Highway, take a right on Sunrise Mine Road (Forest Road 4065).  It is gravel and well-maintained, so don't worry about all-wheel drive.  Drive 2.5 miles to the end of the road to reach Sunrise Mine Trailhead.

Sperry Peak, Sunrise Mine Road 12/29/14
Start in the woods, climbing across trickles of streams and one larger river (the south fork of the Stillaguamish--improvised bridges are regularly washed out here, so proceed if crossing is reasonable.

As you come out of the woods, be amazed at the valley of Wirtz Basin, and watchful of where the trail meanders leading up to the set of ridiculously steep switchbacks across a rock field.  Look for rock cairns to assure you are actualy on the trail--it is very easy and dangerous to go up the wrong way to Headlee Pass.  When you arrive at Headlee Pass you will see an old, beat up sign stating "Headlee Pass 4,600 feet".  It is at this point you will get your first glimpse of Vesper.  Congrats; you're almost halfway.

Coming back down killer switchbacks, Headlee Pass 5/14/15
The trail becomes very easy to follow from here to the lake.  Head down slightly through forest from Headlee Pass and traverse a large rockfall area.  Once you reach the creek, you have a choice: head up the peak, or go to the lake.  The creek makes for a good fill-up area to replenish water (always purify it first).

If you do choose to summit Vesper, you have about a mile left.  Travel the steep trail up through more forested area to the granite above.  The true joy lies in climbing the last half-mile or less, especially on a day it is dry and the rock is grippy.  Grippy shoes and smooth, grippy rock a fun climb make.  Pat yourself on the back when you reach the summit, because you will have earned it.  The views of this hike are not easy to forget.  The less-viewed side of Big Four Mountain (home of the famous Big Four Ice Caves), Sperry Peak, Del Campo Peak and Morningstar Peak are all stark and in-your-face.  Look down the west cliff if you dare, and view Vesper Glacier below with Copper Lake behind.

Note:
This is my favorite hike on Mountain Loop.  Unlike the rest of the hikes on this blog, each of which I have done at least three times, this one I have done but once. It left quite an impression, and reminded me of the euphoria of my first summit--Mount Pilchuck.  It was taxing and Kristen and I almost didn't finish, but when we reached the top and made our hot Ramen and hot coffee, rested our weary legs and turned in circles until there was no more view to take in, it was more than worth every breath.  I personally cannot imagine attempt Vesper anytime the slabs of granite at the top are not dry.  Just getting up Headlee Pass in the snow is a scary thought.  Kristen attempted Vesper three times before we finished it, and she said they got somewhat lost all three times, unable to complete even Headlee Pass because of snow covering the trail.  The angle of the slabs at the summit are such that it would be dangerous to attempt without more gear and experience than I now have.  Though I have big plans, I am not a mountaineer--yet.
View of Big Four Mountain, Vesper Peak Summit 7/23/15
Stats:
Difficulty--expert
Popularity--medium
Mileage--8.0 round-trip
Highest Elevation--6214 ft
Elevation gain--4200 ft
Distance from I-5 in Everett--46 miles; 73 minutes
Major Peaks Visible: Sperry Peak, Morningstar Peak, Big Four Mountain, Mount Forgotten, Mount Dickerman, Del Campo Peak, Mount Baker

http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/vesper-peak
http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/headlee-pass-and-vesper-lake

Gothic Basin

Foggy Lake and Del Campo Peak from Gothic Peak, Gothic Basin 7/17/15
Overview:
This is another destination fantastic for overnight camping, although it is not a beginner backpacking trip like Goat Lake.  Make no mistake, this trail can be punishing at times, especially in the summer heat--one can lose heart on the steep switchbacks in the more woodsy portion, especially if you are not careful to stay hydrated.  The reward is great, though, and well worth the sweat.  It is not the most difficult hike on Mountain Loop, and should not be last on your list.

There are plenty of spots to camp in the basin, although they are not always obvious upon entry.  This actually makes for a pleasantly private sleep.  You may be worried about noise if there are other parties camping around, but it is relatively easy to find seclusion among the hills in the basin.

The Trail:
If you look on a map for the Gothic Basin trail, you won't find it.  Instead, look for Weeden Creek trail.  After you park at Barlow Pass (which can become incredibly crowded on weekends during summer, so get there early), carefully cross Mountain Loop and start on the closed road to the abandoned historic mining town, Monte Cristo.

View of Silvertip Peak, Gothic Basin trail 3/14/15
After about a mile of easy, flat road following the Sauk River--years ago it was used by cars until the bridge  across the river was washed out in floods--the trail will take a right, away from the river and into the forest.  Take advantage of the outhouse here, because it is the only one you will find on the trail.  Be sure to stay right and follow signs for Weeden Creek, not Monte Cristo (which is closed for the time being, anyway).  Half a mile later, cross Weeden Creek and start your taxing uphill climb.  After more forested walking, gaze on the Monte Cristo Range, most prominently red-and-green-and-often-snow-capped Silvertip Peak across the valley.  The views will come and go as you traverse the side of the mountain.

Beware, as snow often lingers late into the season here.  Keep a map with you at all times to keep track of your progress and be sure you haven't lost the trail if there is snow.  Finally, climb over the ridge and into the Basin.  You will first be greeted by the other-worldliness of the white rocks and tall peaks, babbling of snow melting and There is plenty to explore here.  Though you won't see it when you first enter the basin, most people take a trip to Foggy Lake before anything else.  Foggy Lake is to your right, over a big rocky hill at the base of Del Campo Peak, and it is blue and clean as anything.  In summertime, Del Campo makes a worthy, if difficult and quite exposed next objective.  Do not attempt this peak if you are very afraid of heights.  Gothic Peak will be to your left if you are facing Del Campo, and is also climbable.  If you go to the left when you first enter the basin you will find a cliff and a waterfall with Weeden Lake at the bottom.

Facing southeast toward Weeden Lake, Gothic Basin 3/14/15
Stats:
Difficulty--strenuous
Popularity--high [especially until Monte Cristo opens up again]
Mileage--9.2 round-trip
Highest Elevation--5200 ft
Elevation gain--2840 ft
Distance from I-5 in Everett--45 miles; 70 minutes
Major Peaks Visible: Del Campo Peak, Gothic Peak, Silvertip Peak and much of the Monte Cristo Range

http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/gothic-basin

The Ten Essentials


The Ten Essentials are:

  1. Maps/GPS
  2. Compass
  3. Extra water/water purification system
  4. Extra food
  5. Rain gear and extra layers
  6. Matches/fire starter
  7. First Aid Kit
  8. Knife/Multi-tool
  9. Flashlight w/extra batteries
  10. Sun protection
  11. A positive attitude!  Keeping a good head on your shoulders is important.

Goat Lake

Goat Lake, 7/2/15
Overview:
Goat Lake is a great hike for almost any time of year for any hiker who is ready to go the extra miles.  At 10.4 miles, what it lacks in intensity it makes up for in length.  It has a great deal of variety to offer with stark white forests and colorful landscapes to roaring waterfalls, towering peaks, and of course, a rather beautiful lake.  One of the farther drives on Mountain Loop, Goat Lake also makes a great overnight trip for first-time backpackers or those who just want time to do some more exploring.  Campsites are available, but if you are going on a weekend during the summer, be sure to get there early enough to claim a spot--there are about 15 spots, but it can get crowded and privacy is limited.

Because of the relatively low elevation gain, this is a hike on which you usually don't need to worry about snow, so long as there is none in the parking lot when you start. Even considering this, it is just as important to be prepared with the Ten Essentials at all times.

The Trail:
There are two routes one can take for this trail: Upper Elliot and Lower Elliot.  The Lower trail follows Elliot Creek, while the Upper trail is more meandering, flat (an old road) and leads through a forest of white alder trees and, during fall, a palate of colors not seen anywhere else.  Try taking Upper Elliot on your way there; it provides more open views of peaks in the Monte Cristo Range, and is easier to admire when you are looking uphill.  Then take Lower Elliot on the way back; it is slightly shorter and also is best admired looking down on Elliot Creek as you head down the trail.  The two trails split soon after the start of the trail, and don't rejoin for about three miles.

Those up for a challenge will receive it by the time they reach their destination for this hike.  After the two trails join again, the trail becomes more steep and rocky.  Switchbacks become your friend, although beware what is the actual trail and what is a detour--many take a trip off-trail to see the massive Elliot Falls, which is worth the trip, but can be misleading in your push upwards to Goat Lake.  If you reach the falls, you've gone too far--always backtrack and look for where you missed the switchback rather than foraging your own way.  Not only is it dangerous, but it is much more difficult than just going back a few extra paces.  When you reach the falls you are basically there.  Just give yourself that last upward push and you will be at the lake eating lunch in no time.

Elliot Falls 7/2/15
When you reach the top, you will find a huge dam of fallen trees at the outlet of the lake.  From here, the trail branches off in many directions: you can go towards the campsites, which have labeled signs pointing you off to the left into the woods, or your can go towards the lake, which will lead you a few feet above the beach with access to the narrow strip most of the way.  There is not a trail that leads all the way around the lake, and one should not attempt to circumnavigate the entire thing.  Foggy Peak looks beautiful and close-up, but it is not as close as it appears.  The best approach if you really want to climb this mountain is from the other side, from Glacier Basin.  Do not attempt to summit any peaks here unless you are an experienced climber.

Stats:
Difficulty--moderate-to-strenuous
Popularity--moderate
Mileage--10.4 round-trip
Highest Elevation--3161 ft
Elevation gain--1400 ft
Distance from I-5 in Everett--49.5 miles; 89 minutes
Major Peaks Visible: Foggy Peak

http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/goat-lake